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LancerGV · (Last edited: 07-04-2021, 08:07 PM by LancerGV)

Hey, uh, I somehow messed up some stuff pretty badly, and need some help.

I’m making a backup for my laptop first while I’m in, so it might be a while before I can try stuff... It’s hideously slow.

I have an Intel i5 1035G7 Laptop. Integrated graphics.

There’s this game (Luminous Avenger iX) that is immediately going into my connected TV’s 24fps mode when fullscreened. So I wanted to try deleting the 24fps mode to get around that. To my credit, the game worked after that. Buuut there was some collateral, even after importing the exported data.

I deleted everything but the 1080p 60fps mode, because I figured I could load it again after I confirmed the game worked. But that took out my audio over HDMI, and my desktop was really messed up. Wallpaper on both TV and monitor was gone, highlighting icons turned them into black boxes, some other stuff. So I imported the files and used the restart program, still was janky, restarted my laptop... And it was stuck in startup for a while. Don’t remember how long, but I powered it down and started up again, booted instantly, had the old framerates back, but audio was still not working. It was late so I shut it down again...

Today was the same startup thing. Took forever, like 5+ minutes, shut it down, attempted a recovery thing, and it started and no TV audio.

Some guidance would be appreciated...

Edit: Cleared my head, ran reset-all and it’s okay now lol. At least so far.

Though... I don’t really get how to remove framerates. Not entirely sure how I did it the first time.

MPCRU · 07-06-2021, 09:17 PM

Hi ToastyX or Anyone who can help

I searched the thread, but couldnt find similar.

I have a samsung s34j55w, with freesync range 48-75. Its been happy to OC to 95Hz, most people take it that far. But I want to change the freesync range to 45-95z.
Its totally fine up to 40Hz, but blacks out at 33Hz.

How do I stop it going to 33Hz? I use the gsync demo by Nvidia, and it works great, but when i drop fps to 41, i expect the monitor to NOT go down to 41hz, because I limited the range. Instead, it carries on dropping to 33Hz, so instead of frame mismatches, I get black screens.

What am I doing wrong please?

Thanks

CptFartbuttsMcgee · 07-07-2021, 08:34 AM

(07-03-2021 02:42 AM)ToastyX Wrote: Several issues:
1. The driver might be ignoring resolutions below 25 MHz pixel clock.

Well I'll be jesus christ god damned. That was it. Thanks so much. Donating right now.

LancerGV · 07-07-2021, 05:48 PM

So I do anything and it f***s up all my displays. Black screens everything. So I have to power cycle every time I make a change. Then when it turns back on, my laptop doesn’t recognize anything, including the built in monitor. I’m lucky it still outputs an image anyway, but all the brightness and color is messed up and my brightness and volume keys don’t work. At least reset-all does what it’s supposed to do.

I just wanna do one simple thing, remove the 24fps mode to make a game work. Can I get some help, or at least be directed at some software that functions properly?

***ToastyX*** · 07-08-2021, 02:32 AM

(07-07-2021 05:48 PM)LancerGV Wrote: So I do anything and it f***s up all my displays. Black screens everything. So I have to power cycle every time I make a change. Then when it turns back on, my laptop doesn’t recognize anything, including the built in monitor. I’m lucky it still outputs an image anyway, but all the brightness and color is messed up and my brightness and volume keys don’t work. At least reset-all does what it’s supposed to do.

I just wanna do one simple thing, remove the 24fps mode to make a game work. Can I get some help, or at least be directed at some software that functions properly?

CRU only creates a description of what the monitor can do. It doesn't implement any of the functions, so that has to be a driver bug. Use the "Export..." button to save a file and attach it here so I can see if there's anything unusual about the monitor.

***ToastyX*** · 07-08-2021, 02:32 AM

(07-06-2021 09:17 PM)MPCRU Wrote: I have a samsung s34j55w, with freesync range 48-75. Its been happy to OC to 95Hz, most people take it that far. But I want to change the freesync range to 45-95z.
Its totally fine up to 40Hz, but blacks out at 33Hz.

How do I stop it going to 33Hz? I use the gsync demo by Nvidia, and it works great, but when i drop fps to 41, i expect the monitor to NOT go down to 41hz, because I limited the range. Instead, it carries on dropping to 33Hz, so instead of frame mismatches, I get black screens.

The monitor might not be able to handle the increased range correctly. FreeSync uses the max refresh rate as the base resolution, so that can affect the lower end as well. You might have to increase the lower end of the range. LFC is probably making it jump to 66 Hz when it's at 33 FPS.

***ToastyX*** · 07-08-2021, 02:39 AM

(07-03-2021 01:42 PM)ashlar Wrote: I'm not sure I follow when you say I can't have both.
I attach two pictures, photos taken at the TV while activating the service function for HDMI input details. As you can see, the total res and pixel clock values are different for 24 and 23.976. And madVR confirms as well that they are.

Also, when you say "seems to have non-standard timing parameters", can you suggest a source somewhere where I could check what standard timing parameters are? I used Pixel Clock Calculator here (https://www.monitortests.com/pixelclock.php).

I'm not sure what's happening here. Windows will list 23.976 Hz as 24 Hz, and then 23 Hz is added as an alias, so something must have changed because this is new behavior that I haven't seen before. Do you have 3840x2160 @ 24 Hz in the HDMI data block?

"Automatic (HDTV)" will give you the standard timing parameters, but 24 Hz uses a high horizontal front porch, so the CTA-861 timing will only appear if you add it in a DisplayID extension block. Adding it as a TV resolution will also use the CTA-861 timing.

***ToastyX*** · 07-08-2021, 02:42 AM

(07-03-2021 04:04 AM)whoareyouxda Wrote: With the rise of ARM64 and the clear intent of M$ to move their product line that direction, is there any intention on your part to include ARM GPUs (specifically the Adreno 680/685/690 series?)

I'd love to be able to set my Surface Pro X to 90 or even 120hz.

It's up to the graphics driver to implement EDID overrides. I don't think the Adreno driver does.

Quincy F. · 07-08-2021, 06:59 AM

I've come to learn that Win10 sound is a hot mess but I'm still looking for a solution to my problem and failing that, a viable PC 5.1 surround alternative.

My setup:
Win10 PC (Multipurpose, HTPC, games, etc.)
Nvidia 1660 GTX (1x HDMI v2.0b, 3x DP v1.4) currently using Nvidia HD audio driver. Also tried Microsoft HD Audio Driver.
LG B9 OLED
Pioneer VSX-S520 AVR
I have the PC connected via Nvidia HDMI to the TV for video.
I have the PC connected via Nvidia passive DP adapter/HDMI cable to the AVR for audio. I used Nvidia Control Panel to add the AVR as a second monitor and disabled sound to the TV. (I did have PC ---> eARC TV ---> ARC AVR but that wasn't working properly either and not optimal)
Win10 sound settings: 5.1 rear surround, 16bit 48000Hz.

My problem:
Win10 speaker test results in the FL and FR working properly, but the Centre test sound is coming only from both FL&FR and the RL&RR test sound also comes through both FL&FR.

AVR shows it is receiving PCM. DTS HD Master encoded files play properly through all speakers. AVR self-speaker test works correctly. Some games I play are obviously using the Windows sound settings and not producing audio correctly.

What I've tried:
Uninstall drivers, remove device, reinstall
Changed bit depth and sample rate settings
Used different HDMI cables
Tried all the Win10 speaker configurations
I've also tried a different Onkyo receiver but no change
When I used the ARC route the centre channel and sub worked but surround still came thru the front speakers.
I tried an EDID merge when using ARC but no change; I'm not sure I did it correctly.
A bunch of other things I can't remember

Is there a way to force Win10 to tell it to map the correct sounds to the correct speakers? I'm ready to give up and buy a soundcard with optical out.

I've tried this from another forum but no joy:
Not sure if this helps, but have you tried CRU to alter the EDID of the pioneer that windows is reading (it may not be reading it correctly).

Select the pioneer display from top menu
edit extension blocks.
edit audio formats.
select PCM and copy settings as in picture (pioneer manual states it supports these for PCM 5.1)
edit speaker setup and select 5.1 preset at the bottom to auto fill the selection.
okay to exit then run restart64 to apply the changes.

See if that changes anything in its behaviour, there are more advanced options in the speaker setup but I'm not familiar with and the CRU support thread on their forum might be able to help better.

Have you used the eARC Sharc adapter ?

I tried All the speaker options just to attempt to get sound out of my centre speaker; no luck, however Windows did accept the change in LPCM from 8 to 6 channels so that worked.

MPCRU · 07-08-2021, 10:31 AM

(07-08-2021 02:32 AM)ToastyX Wrote:
(07-06-2021 09:17 PM)MPCRU Wrote: I have a samsung s34j55w, with freesync range 48-75. Its been happy to OC to 95Hz, most people take it that far. But I want to change the freesync range to 45-95z.
Its totally fine up to 40Hz, but blacks out at 33Hz.

How do I stop it going to 33Hz? I use the gsync demo by Nvidia, and it works great, but when i drop fps to 41, i expect the monitor to NOT go down to 41hz, because I limited the range. Instead, it carries on dropping to 33Hz, so instead of frame mismatches, I get black screens.
The monitor might not be able to handle the increased range correctly. FreeSync uses the max refresh rate as the base resolution, so that can affect the lower end as well. You might have to increase the lower end of the range. LFC is probably making it jump to 66 Hz when it's at 33 FPS.

Thanks toasty - why would my monitor black out (as if out-of-range) if @66Hz? Is that typical? Because it's very comfortable between 50-80Hz for sure.

Can it still black out so?

Thanks